Story, Samantha Tisdel Wright
All Photos, © Nathan Cline

[Southwestern Colorado] 

People journey from across the country and around the world to revel in southwestern Colorado’s winter wonderland. Discover for yourself the wealth of winter recreation opportunities right in your own backyard. Winter is a wonderful time to discover all that this region has to offer. 

Let’s follow the San Juan Skyway, a state and federally designated scenic route so grand, it has been called “America’s Most Beautiful Drive.” The 236-mile loop snakes over and around the fairytale-esque San Juan Mountains and through the historic mining towns of Durango, Silverton, Ouray and Telluride, also taking in charismatic Ridgway, Rico, Dolores and Mancos along the way. It only takes about six hours to drive the loop in good conditions, but hey, take your time. You’ve got all winter.  (sanjuan skyway) 

Durango—part college town, part tourist town, part Old West, part New West—makes an attractive base camp for those who love the snow but don’t want to live with it for half the year. (durango.org) Trimble Springs, a hot springs pool about 10 miles north of town, near Highway 550, is a favorite winter spot with the locals. (trimble hot springs) The Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad features Thomas the Tank Engine and a Santa train this holiday season. The D&SNGRR Winter Train runs as far as Cascade (about 20 miles south of Silverton) on a daily basis throughout the winter.  (durangotrain.com) 

Durango Mountain Resort (formerly Purgatory), 25 miles north of town, is noted for great alpine skiing and 16km of groomed trails for both Nordic and skate skiing, DMR features the popular Alpine Snowcoaster Tubing Hill, open into the evening under the lights. Another unique attraction is the mountaintop stargazing program; look at the universe through Colorado’s largest privately owned telescope under the guidance of an expert astronomer. San Juan Ski Company, Colorado’s largest snowcat skiing and snowboarding operation, also operates on public lands in the area, offering a fun backcountry alternative to heli-skiing.  (durango mountain resort) 

Silverton—one of the best-kept secrets of winter in the San Juans, and the highest, most remote community in the region at 9318 feet, has really come into its own in the past few years as a destination (see related story). Silverton’s madcap winter carnival, Snowscape, happens in February and features snowball fights, a light parade, a bonfire and much more. 

Between Silverton and Ouray lies what is arguably the most dramatic and daunting stretch of road in the region—the Million Dollar Highway. It provides access to spectacular backcountry opportunities. The area surrounding the summit of Red Mountain Pass is fondly called “The Playground” by local aficionados. One word of caution, don’t play here unless you have taken an avalanche safety class! Twist around the last few switchbacks of the Million Dollar Highway and you are in. (silvertoncolorado.com) 

Ouray —the “Switzerland of America,” tucked into a deep, alpine valley rich in geothermal activity. The Ouray Hot Springs Pool stays open all winter; it is a magical experience to soak in 104-degree water on a frosty winter’s eve as steam billows around you, rendering fellow swimmers into shadowy phantoms. As a special treat, the pool stays open late to welcome Nordic skiers returning from full-moon ski events throughout the winter. Other winter attractions include the Ouray Ice Park (related story page 9), an ice rink where broomball matches take place all winter (fun, but you might consider padding your derriere), a small ski tow, and Nordic ski trails in the Ironton Park area along Red Mountain Pass. Sprint Sled Dog Races take place at Ironton the weekend of January 10-12, featuring numerous ISDRA-sanctioned races and events for novices. (ouraycolorado.com) 

Ridgway—lies just 10 miles down valley from Ouray. It’s a delightfully eclectic town which in recent years has become the gateway to  Telluride. Various hotels in Ouray and Ridgway offer half-price Ski-in-Telluride deals. Local Joe Ryan, proprietor of San Juan Hut Systems, operates five backcountry ski huts connecting Telluride, Ridgway and Ouray.   While in the area, don’t miss a chance to soak at Orvis Hot Springs, a small, intimate facility with private hot-tubs and a natural outdoor hot springs pool. (ridgwaycolorado.com) 

Telluride—these days, requires no introduction, as it has catapulted to the top of the list of favorite ski-town destinations. Prospect Bowl, Telluride’s new 733-acre expansion area, opened to recreational skiers last season. Check out the Surge Air Garden, a snowboarder  playground of berms, banks, tabletops, pyramids, and a 12-foot competition-size halfpipe, as well as the “Rail Garden” with sliding rails not widely seen at other Colorado resorts. Telluride also offers the only heli-skiing in all of Colorado. (telluride.com) 

Dolores—halfway between Durango and Telluride, is only 20 minutes from the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park. Discover the unexpected delights of Mesa Verde’s winter season as you cross-country ski or snowshoe through pinion-juniper forest above Anasazi ruins and sandstone canyons. (Call for snow conditions first, and register with the park ranger before setting out. (doloreschamber.com) 

Mancos—this colorful little town lies between Mesa Verde and Durango, near the lovely La Plata Mountains.  The nearby San Juan National Forest offers a number of groomed and ungroomed cross-country ski trails. Hesperus Ski Area, nine miles east of Mancos, has some tough advanced runs mixed in with beginning and intermediate terrain, and offers night skiing and some sledding. No matter where your explorations take you in the San Juan region this winter, you are sure to come home feeling blessed, and astonished, to live in such a uniquely lovely corner of the world.  (mancosvalley.com)